Rum Cay, first known as Mamana by the Lucayan Indians, is a small, sparsely populated island, located 20 miles southwest of San Salvador, and 185 miles southeast of Nassau (Lat. N23 42’ 30” – Long. W74 50’ 00”).   It is approximately 30 Sq. miles in size, 9.5 miles long by  5 miles wide, and mainly flat, but has a few rolling hills rising to about 130 feet.  

PK Simpson


Rum Cay offers miles of beautiful white sandy, deserted beaches, rolling green hills and azure waters.  Christopher Columbus made his second stop in the New World at Rum Cay, giving it the name Santa Maria de la Concepcion.  The modern name, Rum Cay, is said to be in memory of a wreck destroyed with a cargo of rum which foundered off the coral reefs which surround the Island's shore. 

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In common with other islands, Rum Cay has experienced a series of booms and busts. Engravings which have been found in caves on the island appear to be the writings of the native Indians of that era . Farmers have found various artifacts from the Arawak period in the fertile soil, which the Indians enriched with bat guano. 


Settled by Loyalist planters during the 18th century, Rum Cay was once famous for salt and pineapples.   Plantation boundaries known as ‘margins’, which date from the beginning of the 19th century, and the ruins of slave settlements, can be seen all over the island.  The mid to late 1800’s brought prosperity to Rum Cay.  The population grew to over 5,000 citizens, founding a number of settlements throughout the island.  The island people primarily worked the salt claims, shipping cargos of salt to far away, places like England and Nova Scotia.  Pineapple, salt and sisal have all been important industries, but competition and natural disasters, such as the 1926 hurricane, have all taken their toll and today tourism and second home ownership is the main source of employment.  

In the early 1900s the numerous settlements were serviced by five roads around the island.  On the north coast, Port Boyd, with it's church and cemetery was a farming community.  West, on the hills facing north, is Gin Hill, (named for the working cotton gin).  Several prominent ruins are still visible from the ground and air. Carmichael, on the west end, was known for the pineapple plantations.  Times Cove, Black Rock, Monroe, and Nicholas Village, are now only distant memories.  The few remains of Cotton Field Point will soon succumb to the new developments.  Only about 60 people live in the one remaining settlement, Port Nelson, on the south coast, and the virtual wilderness of the remainder of the island provides excellent opportunities for nature exploration.

Elkhorn Rum Cay, Bahamas 

The only settlement, Port Nelson, has always been the capital and harbor.  It is a picturesque village lying among coconut groves on the south coast, and boasts of it's resort cottages, guest houses, old world charm, and rich historical past.  Sumner Point Marina provides dockage, moorings, bar and restaurant. The Last Chance Convenient Store and Strachan's One Stop has groceries. The Batelco office is is currently closed, has been for two years, and until they assign a new Operator is unavailable for phone calls. 

The wreck of the 101-gun man-of-war H.M.S. Conqueror, Britain's first propeller driven warship, built in Devon in 1855 and which served in the Crimean War, lies in 30 feet of water off Rum Cay where it sank in 1861. Known as the 'Underwater Museum Of The Bahamas', it is the property of The Bahamas Government and none of the contents of the ship may be removed.  Adventuresome divers can still find the shaft, anchor chains and hawser holes in 30 feet of water in a staghorn gully near the breaking reef.

Deep reefs and drop-offs surround this former pirates’ haven. There is staghorn coral at Sumner Point Reef and good diving at Pinder’s Point. At the Grand Canyon, huge 60ft coral walls almost reach the surface.  World class surf can be found at various locations Fall through Spring.  The offshore waters are 3000 feet deep NE of  Rum Cay.  This is great island to surf before sailing to Mayaguana, the Turks and Caicos, or before returning to Georgetown and points north. Or you could stay right here!


From a visitors recent trip: "The spear fishing and diving here was phenomenal! Having dove many times in the Bahamas and accustomed to sparse reefs and sloping drop-offs I was unprepared for the steep walls I encountered just past the southeast point of the island. Flush with unspoiled coral, massive schools of fish and frequent shark and turtle sightings, I dove this area every day, even in high seas and decided this unknown reef and wall system rivaled the best Grand Cayman's North Wall has to offer."   




Arrival by Air



The new airstrip on Rum Cay has been completed by the Bahamas Government. The smooth, sand-finished, paved runway is 4500 feet long and 100 feet wide. Wide borders have been cleared and it is fenced in to keep the wild cattle off the runway, which lies due east and west. 


Two taxiways go to the aircraft parking area south of the runway. A new paved road runs from the airstrip to Port Nelson 2 miles to the south. The west end of airstrip pavement at center line is 23º 41.010' N/ 74º 50.575'W. The east end of airstrip pavement at center line is 23º 41.011' N/ 74º 49.763'W. The two paved taxiways intersect the runway at 74º 49.914' W and 74º 49.805'W. No fuel or other services are available at this time. Cat Island Air (242-377-3318) flies roundtrip from Nassau Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday, currently around $70.  Over Under Aviation  specializes in transportation to the Islands of  Rum Cay, Long Island, N. Eleuthera, and Cat Island. If you are planning on visiting these islands, please check with them, as they often have empty seats available and will put together pooled charters, currently around $275 one way.  Phone 201.240.4952 or 305.852.8015  

No currently scheduled flights are available from the US.  Flyers wishing ground transportation may call Sumner Point Marina on channel VHF 16. 

Mail Boat

Transportation via the mail boat Lady Francis can be arranged through the Nassau Dockmasters office, (242-393-1064).   Observations and measurements were made 2/15/04 by Garmin GPS (WGS84). 



(Click on picture for mail boat schedule)





Arrival by Sea

There are two approaches to the anchorage off Port Nelson; the first and perhaps the most straightforward is between the end of the reef off Sumner Point and the shoal that lies west of it. This approach is with the prominent white houses (recently reported somewhat obscured) on Cotton Field Point bearing 018°. Keep a good lookout for coral heads in this area, particularly west of the 018° course. Short of the town pier is a shallow white sandbank now growing somewhat toward the west. By passing around the south end of it and avoiding one or two heads, a yacht drawing 5 feet could approach the pier more closely and anchor in clear white sand.

The second approach to Port Nelson is from the west and lies close under the south shore of the island with the houses on Cotton Field Point bearing 087°. Continue in on this heading. This course has the advantage of minimizing the sometimes strong westerly set that runs outside.  Cotton Field Point is easily identified, apart from the houses, as the first high land west of the settlement.

A privately maintained light had been installed on Cotton Field Point. When operational, it flashes every 8 seconds and has white sectors, the centerlines of which are over St. Georges Bay's western entry (087° on the light) and southern entry (018° on the light). The reefy, coral-studded area between these is under an amber sector.  All other directions from which the light is visible are under a red sector. The light shows from 78 feet above sea level and should be visible for nearly 10 miles. As with all aids, especially those privately maintained, this light may be changed, inoperative, or discontinued at any time.  It is known that the new owners of the property and the light are not maintaining it to previous standards, and its operation should not be expected.  


The Port Nelson dock has been rebuilt, with reportedly 9 feet on the west side and south end at low water. However, planned dredging of a channel to the dock has not taken place, so boats drawing 5 feet or more are advised to anchor out and dinghy in. The government employed a local resident to light a kerosene lantern each night and place it on the light tower near the dock.  Unfortunately, this colorful practice is no longer taking place since the advent of electricity.  A electric light has not yet replaced the kerosene lamp, but you can still see the light tower during the day! 


Just inside the tip of Sumner Point, at the east end of St. George's Bay, is the Sumner Point Marina. If offers dockage, moorings, fuel, electricity, ice, and a bar and restaurant. The approach, which can carry an 8-foot draft, is just inside the reef that extends westward from Sumner Point. It is marked with PVC stakes (red-right-retuming).  


When you arrive by boat, the entrance to Sumner Point Marina is a straight forward and well marked channel carrying a depth of 6 feet at low water. When your boat reaches the way point that is in all the cruising guides you will pick up the first mark which will be left to your starboard along with all the rest of the marks in the channel. Please call them on channel 16 as you arrive at the first mark for further instructions.  

GPS coordinates:     

           Outside waypoint:  23.37.846N   74.51.035W  

           Buoy waypoint:  23.37.846N 74.50.977W

Slips will accommodate boats up to 8-foot draft. Although the approaches to St. George's Bay are quite straightforward, marina management will provide guides for anyone wishing help, whether staying at the marina or not. Continuing development will open up a large inner harbor where there should be complete shelter in almost any weather.  Be careful not to anchor over the newly installed communication cables.  


The Town


Boasting a new Post office, and a new clinic, complete with a resident nurse, Port Nelson has everything a spoiled cruiser could hope for. 

Ted Bain operates the Oceanview Bar, and Delores Wilson and her daughters Kay and Donna serve excellent Bahamian dinners at Kay's wharfside bar and grill. Enjoy an evening ashore and be sure to sign the guest book. George Gaitor operates the Two Sisters Take-A-Way (331-2809), which specializes in carry-out meals of delicious conch, fish, chicken, and sometimes lobster.  Dockside delivery is available. Francis and Kevin prepare excellent take out dinners delivered to you door or to the dock.  The menu includes fish, chicken, cracked conch, lobster, and several sides.  Call them at 331-2887. 

On the east side of town, at Sumner Point Marina, are two fine restaurants.  Out of the Blue Restaurant and Bar is available for dinners and potlucks.   The Green Flash  is less formal, has a stunning marina and water view, and lines up perfectly for the sunset and the illusive 'green flash'.  They are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, are very friendly, and will take the time to talk to you about the 'hectic' island life.   "Enjoy the exquisite view overlooking St. George’s Bay while tropical winds blow through the large open windows. A huge tidal pool is the center piece for breakfast, lunch, happy hour and dinner. This eatery serves a variety of fresh fish, lobster, home made bread, conch and decadent desserts with an island flare"

It's a good idea to give any of the restaurants hereabouts a few hours' notice if you plan to eat there. 

Just around the corner the Oceanview is Strachan's One stop Store, with a good variety of staples including ice cream just after the mail boat arrives.  Just up the road from the Public Pier is the Last Chance Convenient Store, with a good selection of groceries. A sign on the beach directs those arriving by dinghy. Accommodations are available from Ted Bain (331-2817 or Pearl Maycock (331-2815).  Bill and Kathy Schumacher can set you up in an American vacation home with prior notice if available.  331-2810 







Sandy Point, Rum Cay, Bahamas


Delores Wilson


Matriarch of Rum Cay
Nellie Symm Gruender

One thing I love about cruising is going to places that are not in the mainstream of travel, the out of the way, non-commercial side of the world. These are places you can only get to by boat or by taking a number of planes. The other thing I love is meeting people. We’ve met sailors from all over the world with uniquely diverse backgrounds. Some we’ll stay in contact with, and some will only be the vague memory of a boat name. (cruisers don’t have last names .. it’s always Gene , Nellie and Zach on Rainbow Chaser) I would soon realize that some wouldn’t even be a sailors.


Of all of the people I’ve met, the most fascinating fell under the last category. She is Delores Wilson, the unofficial Matriarch of Rum Cay. Now, for those of you (like myself until a short while ago), who don’t have a clue where Rum Cay is, get the map out. It’s a must-see on the Bahamian cruising circuit. Located at 23 40’ N, 74 50’ W., it is considered one of the Bahamas “out Islands”, and a gorgeous one at that. Lying about 20 miles east of Cape Santa Maria, and 20 miles west of San Salvador, it is thought to have been one of Columbus’s stopping points on his way to find “the new world”. The island is 9 miles long and 5 miles wide with the greater portion of the island being uninhabited. In short, it’s a nature explorer’s paradise.

Nassau Groupers Rum Cay, Bahamas

Despite all of its beauty, Rum has had some major interactions with hurricanes that have greatly affected the economy. Its original prosperity was in salt until the hurricanes in the early 1900’s destroyed the salt pans and ended that industry. As with most Bahamian islands there was a short and very unsuccessful attempt to raise crops, such as pineapple, on the mineral poor soil. The only resort on the island met an equally disastrous fate during hurricane Lily in 1996. Its skeleton on shore is a testament to what could have been without the interference of Mother Nature.


After the pineapple exporting died, cruisers have become the primary source of income. The numerous coral heads surrounding the island make it a little more challenging to get to than some islands, but it is well worth the effort! The sparkling white sand beaches, the excellent fishing, and the numerous snorkeling opportunities keep it high on the cruising list.


Now to the matriarch. On the day we arrived, we settled in, made sure the anchors were going to hold, and we headed for town. After the hustle and bustle of George Town, this was a town of a different nature. Port Nelson, Rum Cay, (the only town on the island) is presently the home to 52 people, with only 8 family names. This small number of people is all that are left from hundreds that lived here to work on the plantations After visiting the “Last Chance” convenience store for a real treat for a cruiser; candy bars, and cokes, we sat down on a brightly colored picnic table near the dock to look over this tiny village with sand streets and incredibly blue water. This could certainly pass for paradise!


As we sat there Zach suddenly decided he needed to use the bathroom, and with the boat a dinghy ride away, he headed for Kaye’s Bar and Restaurant, just down the road from “The Last Chance”, to ask permission to use the facilities. A few minutes later he returned and said “ the lady inside wants you to come in and sign the guest register.” As we entered, Mrs. Delores Wilson, the proprietress, greeted us.


She handed us a well-worn book that had written tributes from the many cruisers who had dropped in before us . We added our signatures and a note to the list that we later learned she had been keeping for years. She then offered me a book to look at titled “Rum Cay - My Home” by .......Delores Wilson.


For just a moment I was mentally transported back to my former life where in academic circles, to be “published” was a much-desired plateau. So, here I sat on a remote Bahamian Island with a tiny, intriguing , lady who had authored and published a book. Wouldn’t those academic scholars be surprised to learn it was written without a word processor in sight.


A gentle rain began to fall outside as I thumbed through the book. After inquiring if we had a little time, Mrs. Wilson wove the tale of her family roots on this tiny remote island. She began a narrative dotted with frequent laughter that took me back to the time of her great-grandfather Moses Nathanial Deveaux. He was a white Scotsman who fell in love with his black servant. The relationship in Scotland, needless to say, caused a stir and they headed out by sea to find a new home. They ended their voyage in the Bahamas on Cat Island. After building a home on Cat, Mr. Deveaux began exploring for new land where he and his wife could prosper. He soon found Rum Cay, and rented a parcel of land on which he and his wife would grow pineapples, cows, and have 5 children. The only male child left the island and never returned. Most of the girls left the island as well and settled in Nassau. As history and the story goes, Mr. Deveaux had better luck with having children than he did with the pineapple crop on the island.


Although Mrs. Wilson was born in Nassau where her mother had moved and worked as a nurse, she was sent back to Rum Cay as a small child. Her Grandmother, Ethel, the oldest of the Deveaux children, who had left and returned to the island, raised her. Her life on Rum Cay under the care of her grandmother, with its simple life and unique culture, became the inspiration for her book.


Even as she returned to Nassau to complete her education at the age of 14, Mrs. Wilson felt a strong attachment for Rum Cay and returned at the age of 40. After recovering from heart problems Mrs. Wilson felt a need to share the rich history of her family and the island with all those who come after her. Writing her remembrances on yellow notepaper she chronicled the everyday life and events on the island. It would have remained “within the family” had not visiting Arch Deacon Murillo Bonaby taken an interest in her fascinating tale. Arch Deacon Bonaby quickly recognized that this journal was something that had to be shared for Bahamians to appreciate the diversity of the islands and appreciate their heritage.


Suddenly Mrs. Wilson found herself flying to Nassau to talk to a publisher about a “lay out”. She still laughs at the thought that she is an “authoress”. With contributions from her daughter Kaye, in the form of pictures, the book was published. Since being printed, the book has been featured at the Government House (the equivalent to our White House) in Nassau, and can be purchased throughout the Bahamian Islands. She is now considering “willing” the book to one of the island children who can continue the legacy of history she has started.

Southern Stingray, Rum Cay

As our conversation moved to the present times Mrs. Wilson talked with pride about the school on the island where teachers from Ghana teach the few children left on the island, two of which are her grandchildren. I had discovered in conversations with other native Bahamians, after a primary education in the out islands, the children frequently go to Nassau, or even Europe to continue their education. Most go on to receive college and graduate degrees. But sadly, many never return to the Bahamas. Mrs. Wilson admitted that her friends and family could not understand why she would choose to return to and stay on Rum Cay. They couldn’t appreciate that this small island which they considered to have so little to offer her was where she felt at home.


Mrs. Wilson showed me pictures of relatives who were architects, physicians, and in service to the government. Her granddaughter is studying to be a nurse. She said a number of times “I was the dumb one of the group”. This, of course, was hardly my assessment of this talented lady.


Her own two daughters, Kaye and Donna, followed in their mother’s footsteps by returning to and remaining on the island. They now assist their mother in running the restaurant that we sat in on that rainy afternoon, and “The Last Chance” which Kaye saved her money to buy.


Our conversation eventually turned to her role as the owner of a restaurant and bar in a town of only 52 people. As she offered me a beer (on the house), she explained that her main clientele were the boaters. Her “busy” season was after the two well known regattas in George Town during March and April. There was no need to guess about the slow time of year. The possibility of winds over 68 knots tends to keep boaters away during hurricane season.


She then reminisced about a lady that showed up one day from the resort and wanted to see the other part of the island. Mrs. Wilson offered to be the tour guide, and the two took off. After a tour and an afternoon dip to cool off, the duo ended their spontaneous jaunt back at the bar with the lady leaving in her jeep. Later some men from the resort came by and asked Mrs. Wilson if she had seen the “Contessa”. It seems she had disappeared for the afternoon, and they were concerned. Mrs. Wilson was a little more than shocked to learn that her traveling and swimming companion was a wealthy titled lady.


Then of course there was that other lady with the big brimmed hat and sun glasses who came in and stayed for the afternoon chatting, much as I was doing. She too signed the register. It was only later when the staff of her boat came in that Mrs. Wilson learned that she had spent the afternoon with, and had the signature of none other than Jackie “O”.


As the rain began to let up and I finished my beer, I realized that the afternoon had slipped away. Zach had gone to the bathroom at least two more times, and Gene was engrossed in the weather channel on the first TV we had seen in weeks.


Myself? I felt like I had just spent the afternoon enjoying a beer with an old friend, on a small Bahamian island where I had never been before.



From the Back Cover of "Rum Cay, My Home"

Delores Wilson is the first born of Mr. and Mrs. Harold Scavella. She is a resident of  Port Nelson, Rum Cay, Bahamas, one of the smaller southern islands and the second  landfall of Christopher Columbus. Delores or "lauris" as she is affectionately called,  spent her very early childhood in Rum Cay living with her grandmother Ms. Ethelyn  Jane Franks, a descendant of Colonel Deveaux from Cat Island.

She came to Nassau at age fourteen and except for summers in Andros with her aunt  Ms.Ruth Culmer, she stayed in the city. She received her education at the public  school, got married and had a daughter Donna, and taught at St. Barnabas Church  School.

One day Lauris did the unthinkable. She packed up herself and chIld and returned to  Rum Cay "to live." It was her determination and inner strength that was put to a severe  test. She started a small bar, drug store, tourist shop and eventually survived. In time  she built a home and a restaurant The home was destroyed by fire some years back  and Lauris came to town and was able to convince friends and family to help her rebuild. 

Lauris was always a leader and her leadership abilities are seen in the place she occupies in the community of Port Nelson. She is chairman of most of the Government Boards and her advice is sought in matters pertaining to the island.

Although we all considered Lauris "smart" we were not aware of her literary ability. It was during a hospitalization, having little to do, that she wrote of her experiences in Rum Cay and the history of the Island.

Her style is simple and very readable. It is an excellent source of insider information about Rum Cay and how to appreciate Bahamian Island life.

Her book is available for purchase at her restaurant, Kay’s place, in Port Nelson, Rum Cay.


Reef Rum  Cay, Bahamas

All underwater photography taken at Rum Cay by Alex Kirkbride and available for purchase.




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